Steve Gandy - steve@stevegandy.com
SIZE | QUALITY | WHITE BALANCE | ISO | EXPOSURE | LIGHTING | FOCUS | SETTINGS | COMPOSITION | UNLOADING | ORGANIZING | OPTIMIZING | ARCHIVING | PRINTING & SHARING | LINKS
It is not everything but it is important. You can choose the size of the photograph. Typical sizes might be 1600x1200 pixels (2 megapixels - good for quick snapshots), 2800x2100 pixels (6 megapixels - can be enlarged up to 8x10 or more for prints), and 3700x2750 or much more ( 10 megapixels and more needed for big prints and fine art). For viewing on screen, less than the smallest size is fine. For snapshots the smaller sizes are fine. If you are capturing something artistic or very detailed choose the biggest size available. I only set my camera on a smaller than maximum size if a client requires it. You can always down size but enlargements cause quality problems.
Note: Use the back button to return after viewing these. Click hold and open in a new window if you want to compare sizes together.
There are different levels of file compression.This is how the camera takes the information you capture and saves it for viewing. It saves space on the memory card if you choose a low setting. The lowest quality setting is fine for viewing on screen but not for printing. All jpeg settings involve a process that is "lossy". That means that the camera is throwing away huge amounts of information before you even get to see it. You cannot get it back. Leaving the camera set at the highest quality setting is the best recommendation unless there is a good reason for changing it. And it is important to remember that editing a jpeg on the computer and re-saving loses even more data as shown in the examples. Capturing images in RAW or TIF format requires more time and expertise once you have them on the computer however.
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Low Quality - High JPG Compression |
High Quality - Low JPG Compression |
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Note: You may need to download and open these with an image editor to see the difference.
You can make adjustments for the lighting conditions. Most cameras have white balance settings for shooting under fluorescent bulbs vs. incandescent vs. outdoor sunny skies. This is like having an infinite number of film types available.
| incandescent: | fluorescent: |
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| sunny: | shade: |
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| incandescent: | fluorescent: |
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| sunny: | shade: |
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You can make adjustments for the lighting conditions. Most cameras have white balance settings for shooting under fluorescent bulbs vs. incandescent vs. outdoor sunny skies. This is like having an infinite number of film types available.
The ISO setting is seductive the higher the number the more sensitive your sensor becomes so you can take photos in darker conditions. However, there is a trade-off... generally higher ISO settings increase the "noise" in the image. Noise is dots of light and color in the image that degrade the look especially in the shadow areas. If it is too extreme it can ruin the image.
ISO 100 |
ISO 3200 |
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The correct exposure of a photograph is important. It is also subjective. If you a dark moody, or bright sunny exposure you can tell the camera to do it. Often, we want an exposure that shows reality. There are 3 big factors/controls that help define exposure:
The 3 are related. If it is a bright sunny day. The ISO is set at 400. The camera will probably choose an exposure of 1/500 shutter speed and f16.
This web page has a great explanation of exposure: http://www.completedigitalphotography.com/?p=1125
There may be controls on the camera for plus or minus exposure adjustments.
There may be controls on the camera for metering on the center (spot metering) vs. the whole area (matrix or evaluative metering).
Exposure adjustments...This shows a normal exposure in the middle. Minus one stop on the left and plus one stop on the right.

Metering for Extremes...Also, trusting the built in meter in extreme conditions will result in a poorly exposed photo. It seems counterintuitive but you need to let more light into the "film" when the subject is bright and less when it is dark. This is because the meter is dumb and tries to expose a medium gray as its default.
This shows normal metering on the left. And plus one, then plus two to compensate for the "medium gray" problem.

Camera Meter info: See this page for an example of how the meter sees the world as gray.
It is all about the light. Welcome to a research project that could last a lifetime!
General tips:
Soft and hard light examples
Back Light and Fill Flash
Keep your subject in focus! It defines the image.
Some cameras have continuous focus for moving subjects.
The Aperture setting (f-stop) can affect the depth of field (how much of the photo appears in focus). Small f-stop numbers, mean large openings, mean
Low contrast can confuse the auto-focus feature. Learn how to compensate with manual focus or other techniques.
There may be controls for setting and holding focus on the camera then recomposing the shot. Your manual has the details.
Focus on the closest eye for portraits. If the eyes are not sharp, the portrait will be sub-par.
Depth of Field
f / 1.4 shallow depth-of-field |
f/ 16 wide depth-of-field |
All rules are made to be broken.
KISS, can your subject be described in a simple sentence?
Watch out for distracting backgrounds. Watch out for "tunnel vision."
Camera angle can make a big difference. Take photos of children from their eye level.
Move closer, fill the frame
Rule of Thirds can help you aim your camera.
Let something in the environment frame the shot.
Leave space for "movement."
Contrast or contrasting colors. Convert to b & w a highly contrasted image?
Patterns and Lines can add depth and lead the eye.
Background Interference...
Angles...


Frame Your Subject

There are some smart settings that are basic but will help you take shots in some challenging situations. Some cameras have settings for situations like action, night, close ups etc. but it is instructive to know what the camera is doing for those. After all it is not magic, it is all exposure, shutter speed, aperture, ISO settings and common sense. What is below are recommendations that rely on assumptions about the shot and are certainly not to be taken as gospel. They are not prescriptions to follow exactly but rather tips to try.
Before reading the recommendations, think about what you know about your camera's settings and which ones might make sense.
ACTION - Think fast shutter speed, 1/500 second or faster to stop the action. The faster the action the faster the shutter speed you will need. You may need to increase the ISO to enable a short shutter speed like this.
LANDSCAPE - Traditional landscapes use a wide angle lens (less than 50mm), a smallish aperture and a tripod. These will help with depth of field and sharpness.
PORTRAITS - A large aperture will blur the background. The traditional lens is 100mm. Use a tripod if possible. Manual focus on the closest eye. A slight downward angle will emphasize the eyes but a slight upward angle can make the chin and neck look too prominent. Light coming from a big source like a window is much nicer than hard direct light on faces.
BACKLIT SUBJECTS - Use a fill flash to lighten the shadows. Use spot or center weighted metering on the subject.
INDOOR LIGHTS - Check your white balance. Indoor lights are often very warm. Use the incandescent or tungsten setting to compensate. Use a high ISO or flash.
PEOPLE OUTDOORS - Get closer. Get out of the direct midday sun. Use fill flash to lighten shadows on faces.
PEOPLE INDOORS - Get closer. Use flash on the slow sync setting to avoid black backgrounds. Get the light off the camera.
NIGHT - Use a high ISO but know your camera's limits when it comes to noise at those settings. Use a tripod. Use a slow exposure to blur the moving lights.
Modern systems (both Mac and Windows) when used with modern digital cameras will allow you connect your camera without installing any software. This is good because a lot of the software that comes with the cameras is sub-standard.
If you are unfamiliar with computer cables and connections, wear your reading glasses and study the cables and ports carefully to prevent damage.
Using a card reader rather than the camera can be faster and easier on your camera's battery.
Manually drag/copy your image files to locations that you choose. Or use software that allows this. You do not want to edit the photos from the memory card. Note: iPhoto does not let you organize the actual files, see below.
After getting your photos to the computer you can erase the memory card for further use. Note: you do not want to erase the card until your images are backed up, see below. It is better to let the camera do the erasing rather than the computer. And, it is better to have the camera format the card (totally wipe it clean) rather than just erasing the images. Check your manual for this feature, it is important. Before erasing memory cards, back up the images. See below.
Use the computer system's folders to organize for yourself first. Having a working folder and archive folders is important. Keep the originals save for later optimization.
Good software tools for organization:
On Mac: iPhoto (does not allow the user to do the initial organization of files with tweaking the preferences!), Picasa, Photoshop Elements, Photoshop and Bridge, Photoshop Lightroom, Aperture(does not allow the user to do the initial organization of files with tweaking the preferences!)
On Windows: Windows Photo Gallery, Picasa, Photoshop Elements, Photoshop and Bridge, Photoshop Lightroom
There are others as well; PhotoMechanic, ACDSee, Microsoft Expression Media Studio (used to be iView Media)
3 IMPORTANT THOUGHTS on ORGANZING YOUR IMAGES
Your old film was optimized by the lab when being printed all along and that is why we are sometimes disappointed with what we see at first with our digital shots. Digital images can record a very wide range of brightness and because of that the colors don't always "pop" or look as bright and good as they should. So some optimization is sometimes (often) required. Though the cameras are getting "smarter" all the time and if you shoot JPG's it will process them to a degree at the time of capture.
Some adjustments can be made in almost any software that will open the file; OpenOffice, Microsoft Office, Graphic Converter, iPhoto, Image Capture, Adobe PhotoShop Elements. But the best, simple choices are iPhoto on the Mac and Picasa on Windows or Mac. Search for "image editor" at VersionTracker.com or Download.com and you'll find lots more choices.
Online choices: flickr.com, picnik.com, photoshop.com
Adobe's Photoshop Elements is an excellent affordable choice (under $100)! The pros use the full version and Elements has all the features and more that you need as an amateur.
Cropping, sizing, and color correction are the 3 main tweaks that you will want to do with your photos. Sometimes we just need to lighten or darken slightly. Color correction is a catchall term that applies to contrast, color casts, brightness, and color saturation. All the software tools mentioned above have these basic functions and more.
Having really great photos is one thing, keeping them forever is another. It is (insert time here), do you know where your backups are?
If you seriously want to keep your images forever you must have a scheme for basic back-up! All computer drives will fail at some point.
One example workflow:
The 321 strategy says:
Any brand name CDs will do but the best and most reliable are those that listed as "archival" and with a brand name: Kodak, Verbatim, Mitsui. They are hard to find in stores, try searching www.google.com
Getting really good prints yourself is tricky. It is a can of worms!
You need a photo printer and photo paper. It can be very time consuming and frustrating.
You need a quality printer, quality paper, quality archival inks, monitor and printer calibration, lots of time and patience for anything that rivals a 19¢ print from Walgreens.
For really nice prints use one of the online services or local photo printers.
Apple with iPhoto
is actually Kodak
Picasa gives you a choice
of nearly everything
Kodak Gallery
Photo Works
ShutterFly
Snapfish
Costs are around 12-29¢ per 4x6 print plus a shipping charge.
These same Internet printing services all provide sharing services as well. Once you have uploaded your photos, you can view them online and share them with friends and family. Many of these are available from within the programs now.
The programs will scale them for email. But check to make sure.
Photography Glossary - from NikonB and H Photo Web Store - reputable store in NY and on the webDigital Photography Review - great source of hardware reviews and specs
Kodak Gallery -printer and web host for sharingOutdoor Photographer Magazine - great magazine for nature shooters
Popular Photography Magazine - great magazine for shooters of all kinds
Photo Works - printer and web host for sharingShutterfly - printer and web host for sharingSnapfish - printer and web host for sharing
Digital Photography Best Practices and Workflow - great place to get the answers to questions like, "What should I do about ...?" compiled by industry leaders. Endorsed by ASMP.
Steve's Digicam (this isn't me) great source of hardware reviews and specs
Adobe Photoshop Elements - software that is a step up from iPhoto and Picasa and a step down from Photoshop the full version, affordableAcorn - software that is a step up from iPhoto and Picasa and a step down from Photoshop the full version, affordable
Pixelmator - software that is a step up from iPhoto and Picasa and a step down from Photoshop the full version, affordable
MPIX - printer, high end but affordable
Picasa - free entry level software from Google
iPhoto - free entry level software from Apple
Steve’s page - this is me
Photoshop Online - Adobe's online version of Photoshop, it is pretty good for the basics. Shares galleries also.
Flickr - web host, sharing site, the most popular one
SmugMug - web host, sharing site, this one has really nice looking galleries but requires a fee
Photo Bucket - web host, sharing site
JAlbum - software for creating photo galleries that you would host yourself on your own web siteBest Practices for Digital Photography - ASMP site for the best ways to do things in digital photography
How To’s from Pop Photo - Popular Photography Magazine How To's
Nikonians - Organization of Nikon shooters, lots of help, forums, how to's, buy and sell
SIZE | QUALITY | WHITE BALANCE | ISO | EXPOSURE | LIGHTING | FOCUS | COMPOSITION | UNLOADING | ORGANIZING | OPTIMIZING | ARCHIVING | PRINTING & SHARING | LINKS
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Steve Gandy
steve@stevegandy.com