Steve Gandy - steve@stevegandy.com
Click here for all the example photos....
Size:
You can choose the size of the photograph. Typical sizes might be 640x480
pixels (good for quick snapshots), 1024x768 pixels (can be enlarged up to
5 x 7 inches for prints, and 2048x1600 (needed for big prints). For viewing
on screen the smallest size is fine. For snapshots the smaller sizes are fine.
If you are capturing something artistic choose the biggest size available.
Note: Use the back button to return after viewing these. Click hold and open in a new window if you want to compare sizes together.
Quality:
There are different levels of file compression. This saves space on the memory
card. The lowest quality setting is fine for viewing on screen. All jpeg settings
involve a process that is "lossy". And it is important to remember
that editing a jpeg and re-saving loses even more data.
Note: You will probably need to download and open these with an image editor to see the difference.
| incandescent: | fluorescent: |
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| sunny: | shade: |
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Exposure Adjustments:
You can make adjustments for the lighting conditions. Most cameras have white
balance settings for shooting under fluorescent bulbs vs. incandescent vs.
outdoor sunny skies.
Also, trusting the built in meter in extreme conditions will result in a poorly exposed photo. It seems counterintuitive but you need to let more light into the "film" when the subject is bright and less when it is dark. This is because the meter is dumb and tries to expose a medium gray as its default.
There may be controls on the camera for plus or minus exposure adjustments.
There may be controls on the camera for metering on the center vs. the whole area.
There may be controls on the camera for adjusting contrast.
Exposure adjustments...This shows a normal exposure in the middle. Minus one stop on the left and plus one stop on the right.


Camera Meter info: See this page for an example of how the meter sees the world as gray.
Lighting...
The subject should be lighter than the background.
The primary light source should be from the side and away from the photographer. 45 ° is suggested.
If the background is bright use a "fill flash".
"Soft" light is better than "hard" light.
Soft and hard light on the subject.
Back Light and Fill Flash
Focus...
Keep your subject in focus! Low contrast can confuse the auto-focus feature. There may be controls for setting and holding focus on the camera.
Composition...
Watch out for distracting backgrounds.
Camera angle can make a big difference.
Rule of Thirds can help you aim your camera.
Let something in the environment frame the shot.
Background Interference...
Angles...


Frame Your Subject

Modern systems (both Mac and Windows) when used with modern digital cameras will allow you connect your camera without installing any software. This is good because a lot of the software that comes with the cameras is sub-standard.
If you are unfamiliar with computer cables and connections, wear your reading glasses and study the cables and ports carefully to prevent damage.
Manually drag/copy your image files to locations that you choose. You do not want to edit the photos from the memory card.
After getting your photos to the computer you can erase the memory card for further use. It is better to let the camera do the erasing rather than the computer. And, it is better to have the camera format the card (totally wipe it clean) rather than just erasing the images.
Use the computer system's folders to organize for yourself first. Having a working folder and archive folders is important. Keep the originals save for later optimization.
Good tools for organization:
On Mac: iPhoto and iView Media
Photoshop Elements also has a 'browser' that allows you to use your own folder hierarchy.
If you seriously want to keep your images forever you must keep them on the computer's hard drive and on CD. A basic back-up strategy is needed.
Any brand name CDs will do but the best and most reliable are those that listed as "archival" and with a brand name: Kodak, Verbatim, Mitsui. They are hard to find in stores, try searching www.google.com
Your old film was optimized by the lab when being printed all along and that is why we are sometimes disappointed with what we see at first with our digital shots. Digital images can record a very wide range of brightness and because of that the colors don't always "pop" or look as bright and good as they should. So some optimization is usually required.
Some adjustments can be made in almost any software that will open the file; AppleWorks, Kid Pix, StarOffice, Microsoft Office, Graphic Converter, iPhoto, Image Capture, Adobe PhotoShop Elements.
Photoshop Elements is an excellent affordable choice! The pros use the full version and Elements has all the features and more that you need as an amateur.
Cropping, sizing, and color correction are the 3 main tweaks that you will want to do with your photos. Sometimes we just need to lighten or darken slightly.
In Adobe Photoshop Elements there is a tool for cropping.
Use Image Menu > Resize to change photo dimensions.
Use Levels for color correction. Command L (it's menu location seems to move with each version.)
For simple lightening or darkening use Brightness/Contrast.
Getting really good prints yourself is tricky. You need a photo printer and photo paper. It can be very time consuming and frustrating. For really nice prints use one of the online services or local photo printers.
Apple with iPhoto
Kodak Gallery
PhotoAccess
ShutterFly
Snapfish
Costs are around 12-29¢ per 4x6 print plus a shipping charge.
These same Internet printing services all provide sharing services as well. Once you have uploaded your photos, you can view them online and share them with friends and family.
Some photography related links:
Steve's Digicam (this isn't me)
Going Digital eBook from ACDSee
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Steve Gandy
steve@stevegandy.com